Everything you want to know: photoblog

Why do my printed photos look different...Monitor Calibration

stephen@photoprostl.com (Stephen Weiss) — Thu, 14 Dec 2023 17:27:51 GMT

Monitor Calibration

Monitor calibration is the process of adjusting the colors on your computer monitor to match a common standard like SRBG or ADOBE RGB which professional labs use.

This is done using a device called a colorimeter (Calibrite Display SL), which measures the color output of your monitor and works with computer software to maintain accurate colors in your images.

The need for monitor calibration arises from the fact that different screens

display images differently. The internal components and settings of each

screen can vary, resulting in differences in how images appear on different

screens. This can lead to variations in color, contrast, and sharpness, making

it difficult to determine the true representation of an image.

By calibrating your monitor, you can achieve consistency in how images are

displayed across different screens. This is particularly important for photographers

who rely on accurate color representation. Calibrating your monitor ensures

that what you see on your screen is more likely to match what others see on

their screens, as well as what you will get in prints.

Again, good photo labs are also calibrated to the same standard , ensuring that the

colors you see on your monitor are accurately reproduced in printed materials.

This helps maintain consistency between digital and physical outputs. We have found that both Walgreens and

Snapfish do not accurately balance their machines.

If you are a photographer, videographer, or anyone whose earnings depend on

accurate colors, investing in a monitor calibration kit is highly

recommended. These kits typically include a spectrophotometer or

colorimeter, software, and instructions to help you calibrate your monitor.

The monitor calibration process begins with installing the software on your

computer. You then connect the colorimeter to your computer via a USB port and

hang it on your monitor. The colorimeter takes readings of your monitor's

output to measure color, gamma, brightness, contrast, and other parameters.

Using these readings, the software removes any color casts and optimizes your

settings. The corrected settings are stored and loaded each time your system

reboots. If your monitor supports look-up-tables, the profiles can be stored

directly in the monitor. Photo editing software like Adobe Lightroom and

Photoshop also utilize the corrected profile to provide the most accurate color

display possible.

The entire calibration process typically takes around six minutes, but it's

important to follow the instructions provided with your monitor calibration

kit. In addition to the specific instructions, here are some general best

practices for monitor calibration:

Ensure your monitor is in a location free of direct light that could affect the

results

Allow your monitor to warm up for 15-30 minutes before starting the calibration

process.

Check for any software updates for your computer before beginning.

Calibrate your monitor regularly for the best results. Most monitor calibration

companies recommend monthly calibration. Consider setting a reminder on your

phone to help you remember.

When it comes to choosing a monitor for photography and color-dependent work, it's

important not to skimp on quality. Invest in a monitor specifically designed

for such tasks. Research photography monitors and read reviews from other

photographers to find the best options. It's worth noting that most print labs

recommend against doing color-sensitive work on laptop screens, as they are

often unreliable in terms of color reproduction. Even after calibrating a

laptop screen, it may still not provide accurate colors. Consider using an

external monitor for photo editing instead. If you frequently encounter issues

with color accuracy on your laptop, it may be worth investing in a better

monitor.

Last, where you do your editing can make a huge difference. We recommend that you try to edit your images in the same room with the same light each time. As you will find out…lighting in the room (the color of the lamps and window light) can have a big impact on color reproduction.

The Photo Pros balances their machines and monitors and light in our store a balanced for daylight. When viewing your prints at home they may look different.

If you have any questions, please contact us! 314-567-3456

Manual Focus - Why Bother?

Wed, 07 Jun 2023 19:09:39 GMT

Manual Focus - Why? By Derek Leath, Instructor

Autofocus works great, well most of the time.

I have a lot of manual cameras, so I’ve always use manual focus. But today’s cameras are for the most part autofocus by design.

Your camera will have little autofocus sensors that light up and make a beeping sound when you hit the target. Camera manufactures even boast about how many autofocus points they have, the more the merrier right?

Not necessary, you will have to know where you are going to focus, and then preselect your point, or hope that your camera will track your objects movement in order to nail the focus.

Forget about using the camera in a dark room or at night.

Autofocus uses contrast on most systems, so if there isn’t any contrast i.e., your subject is to white or grey or maybe even to black, it just will not work as designed. The lens motor will just keep moving back and forth searching for something to focus on. Odds are you will miss the shot you were after.

You autofocus lens will have a manual switch and or ring to turn just for these times when you do indeed need to focus manually.

What if your object isn’t moving but your focus is very critical.

Macro photography is a prime example, where manual focusing should be used

Manual focus is particularly useful in situations where autofocus may struggle, such as low-light conditions, when shooting through glass or other obstacles, or when shooting subjects with low contrast. It also gives you creative control over the selective focus and allows you to create intentional blur or focus on specific elements in the frame.

Practice and experimentation will help you become proficient in manual focusing. Over time, you'll develop a better sense of how to achieve precise focus manually, resulting in more control and creative freedom in your photography.

Meditation in Photography

Thu, 25 May 2023 20:29:25 GMT

Meditation in Photography

By Derek Leath

Living in this fast-paced world, sometimes it’s good to slow down and smell the roses as they say.

Some people have turned to meditation to bring them back to center.

You don’t have to be Gandhi or some other far eastern guru to practice meditation.

I do a form of meditation called mindfulness. Mindfulness is often practiced through various techniques such as meditation, deep breathing, or simply being fully present in everyday activities.

My everyday activity is photography, I take my camera almost everywhere daily.

Some of my best photos are the ones that happen unexpectedly. When we slow down, we also tend to notice the little things, the details can turn a good photo into a great one. Photography allows you to focus your attention on the present moment, become fully immersed in the visual world around you, and cultivate a sense of calm and awareness.

When you pick up your camera, you start to observe the world more closely. Photography encourages you to pay attention to the details, patterns, and beauty in your surroundings. This heightened observation can help you become more mindful and present.

Here are some ways in which photography can be a meditative practice:

mindful observation:

· Focus and Concentration: To capture a compelling photograph, you need to concentrate and focus your attention on the subject(s). This process requires you to let go of distractions and be fully present in the moment. As you concentrate on framing, composition, and capturing the essence of your subject, you enter a state of flow, where your mind is fully engaged in the task at hand.

· Slowing Down: Photography often requires slowing down and taking the time to find the right shot. This deliberate pace allows you to shift from the fast-paced nature of daily life to a more relaxed and contemplative state. By slowing down, you can notice subtle details and nuances that you might have missed otherwise.

· Connection with the Subject: When you photograph people, nature, or objects, you have the opportunity to connect with your subject on a deeper level. This connection can foster a sense of empathy, appreciation, and understanding. It allows you to see the world from different perspectives and encourages a compassionate outlook.

· Creative Expression: Photography provides a means of creative expression, allowing you to share your unique vision of the world. By expressing yourself artistically through photography, you can tap into your emotions, thoughts, and experiences, promoting self-discovery, relaxation, and personal growth.

· Mindful Editing and Reflection: The process of selecting and editing your photographs can be a reflective and contemplative practice. As you review your images, you can reflect on the moments you captured and the emotions they evoke. This introspection can deepen your self-awareness and facilitate a sense of inner calm. Many photographers don’t even edit or view their photo for a length of time. This help gives you time to think about your original intentions and remove unnecessary images.

Remember, the intention behind photography as meditation is to be fully present and engaged in the process rather than solely focusing on the result. By incorporating mindfulness into your photography practice, you can derive both artistic satisfaction and the benefits of meditation.

What is a histogram?

Wed, 24 May 2023 17:25:25 GMT

What is a Histogram?

By Derek Leath

A camera histogram is a graphical representation of the tonal distribution in an image captured by a camera. It displays the number of pixels at each tonal value, from dark to light, allowing photographers to analyze the exposure and overall brightness of the image.

By examining the camera histogram, photographers can evaluate the exposure of an image. A well-exposed image typically has a histogram that is spread out across the tonal range, without any areas excessively concentrated on one end or the other. If the histogram is skewed towards the left side, it indicates underexposure (too dark), while a skew towards the right suggests overexposure (too bright).

This image shows an underexposed photograph (too dark).

As you can see, most of the image lacks any sort of bright detail. Histogram clearly shows a strong shift to the left side with most tones in the shadow range, and some are even clipped (completely black).

In this image, there are barely any tones at the extreme left-side of the histogram, where blacks are shown, which means there is no detail lost in shadows. It is sufficiently dark, yet still bears enough detail.

This image is overexposed (too light). Many tones are very bright and there are basically no darker tones. A large portion of the image is blown-out (completely white) and bears no detail at all. As you can see, the histogram confirms that the image is much too bright – it is shifted strongly to the right.

Photographers can use the histogram to make exposure adjustments while shooting. By analyzing the histogram, they can determine if the image is properly exposed or if adjustments need to be made to the camera settings, such as aperture, shutter speed, or ISO, to achieve a better exposure.

Histograms are available in many digital cameras, and they can also be viewed and analyzed during post-processing. Histograms are valuable tools for understanding and adjusting the tonal distribution in an image and ensuring proper exposure.

In post-processing, histograms are helpful for fine-tuning the tonal range of an image. By adjusting the brightness, contrast, or levels based on the histogram, you can enhance the overall tonal balance and improve the visual impact of the image.

Histograms are a valuable tool for photographers to assess exposure, adjust settings, and make informed decisions about capturing and processing images.

Can I photograph that building

Wed, 24 May 2023 16:32:48 GMT

Can I photograph that building??

By Derek Leath, Photographer

I was walking around Clayton the other day taking photos of some buildings and saw a nice reflection of a building on the outside of another building.

I walked up to the building and began to take photos, when this security guard came up to me rather fast and said... “Y ou can’t take photos here or of this building and you need to stop now !”

Now, I must admit I was a little flustered by the whole situation.

I kindly disagreed with him, but politely moved on.

Well, that got me thinking, am I in my rights to photograph a government or any other building outside, not on private property?

The short answer is yes and doing a little research I came up with some information for you to look over.

Public areas: In general, you can take photographs of buildings from public areas, such as sidewalks and streets. These areas are considered public property, and individuals have the right to photograph the exterior of a buildings as long as they are not obstructing traffic or creating a disturbance.
Security concerns: It's important to be mindful of security concerns when photographing a building. Avoid capturing sensitive details or security features that could potentially compromise the safety and security of the facility. This includes not photographing entrances, exits, security checkpoints, or any other restricted areas.
Interior photography: Interior photography of buildings is typically more restricted and may require permission or a permit. If you wish to photograph the interior of a building, it is advisable to contact the owner or building management in advance to inquire about their policies and obtain any necessary permissions.
Be respectful and cooperative: Always maintain a respectful and cooperative attitude if approached by security personnel or law enforcement officers while taking photographs. Follow their instructions and be prepared to explain the purpose of your photography if asked.

It is always wise to check with owner or tenant the specific building if you plan to photograph the interior to ensure compliance with them.

SPECIAL NOTE : Photographing federal buildings can be subject to certain restrictions and regulations, particularly for security reasons. While it is generally allowed to take photographs of federal buildings from public areas, it's essential to exercise caution and be aware of any specific rules that may be in place at a particular location. Here are a few key points to keep in mind:

What do I need to spend on a new camera...aka why are we here?

stephen@photoprostl.com (Stephen Weiss) — Tue, 09 Aug 2022 21:28:28 GMT

We are here to help you!

Why are we here?

I read hundreds of questions on Facebook from people wanting to know how to get rid of shadows, should they bounce their flash, why does the picture come out yellow when the lights in the room are incandescent, the list goes on and on.

Next, I hear oh you should buy this camera, oh you shouldn't buy that brand you should only buy this brand oh you need the expensive camera and lenses. None of this is true.

Speaking from years and years of experience it is not the camera… it is the person pushing the button. I have seen magnificent images produced from a $299 point and shoot, or a $499 DSLR and a $5000 pro Camera.

There are succinct reasons why to spend a of money for a camera however, all photography is based on one major aspect. The light. You need to understand it… you need to be able to view its direction… to understand its color and is it hurting your image. Is it two harsh from up above… is the light producing shadows…is the light “broken”? How do you combat that?

Over the years we have had thousands of customers come in and buy expensive cameras. Once they understand photography their images will be superior to most inexpensive cameras, however if you understand aperture, ISO and shutter sometimes you'll great image produced from an inexpensive camera.

The simplest question on the internet… “ what is the best camera for a $1000 budget”. There is absolutely no way to answer that question!

· What are you going to photograph?

o Sports, family, portraits, real estate, landscapes, travel…

· What is the situation?

· What is your experience?

· Do you understand light in photography?

· Do you know all the buttons on your camera?

We are now a small boutique camera store; we preserve history, we teach photography and how to become a better photographer!

Stop on by…give us a call or email us!

Stephen Weiss, Photographer, and Instructor

Olympus all the way

stephen@photoprostl.com (Stephen Weiss) — Tue, 09 Aug 2022 20:35:03 GMT

"OLYMPUS IS IN OUR OPINION...IS THE BEST CAMERAS FOR M O S T PHOTOGRAPHERS!"

Stephen Weiss, Instructor

Why we shoot and carry Olympus cameras…

Several years ago, we (at Creve Coeur Camera) started selling the OMD line up of point and shoot cameras and DSLR mirrorless cameras. We were given lots of samples to try and lots of lenses. At the time Stephen Weiss (the owner) shot Nikon full frame. In the past he had used Canon/Pentax and a little Sony.

As a sports and landscape photographer the Nikon D series (D4 and D5) were incredibly fast and durable. However, very large and heavy. When working at the racetrack, he and other would run from one side of the track to the other, several times a weekend. NHRA, NASCAR, INDY CAR were long weekends.

At a point Stephen started his travel trips to places like Japan, Cuba, Costa Rica and took his Olympus with him.

It was basically ½ the size and weight. Upon, returning to the states, he then processed his images and printed lots of the to be places in the store. 8x10’s up to 30x40’s. NO ONE KNEW WHAT CAMERA TOOK THE IMAGES. Customers were convinced that he had taken the with a FULL FRAME camera and with his usual Nikon.

At that point Stephen started having “hip” issues and carrying a lot of equipment was a struggle. He decided to sell his Nikon and become exclusively and Olympus photographer. He has never looked back!

There are just a few time that a full frame is probably just a little better, but for most people who travel, have fun with photography, and want great images without a ton of photography knowledge…OLYMPUS is the one and as a professional photographer Olympus can change your photography too.

WHY:

1. Very compact and lightweight

2. Intelligent Subject Detection AF.

3. The best image stabilization system in the industry.

4. Basic up to “PRO” lenses

5. Both JPG and RAW formats

6. Internal Computer that “knows” what you are photographing (in the Auto Mode).

7. Programmability of buttons (most of the camera)

8. A LCD view finder – what you see is what you get

9. Built in HDR/Bracketing and some models with a built in ND system

10. Autofocus Tracking – for parents and sports photographers

11. Ultra-wide angle 14mm lenses up to 2000mm (FX equivalent) lenses.

12. UP to 120 frames per second

13. Water resistant splash proof and dust proof bodies and lenses.

14. Handheld 80mp sensor shift images – huge sharp jpg images

15. 4k video

16. WiFi and Bluetooth

17. OLYMPUS IS A HUGE MEDICAL IMAGING COMPANY...THEY MAKE THE FINEST LAPAROSCOPIC INSTRUMENTS, BRONCHOSCOPES, VIDEO MICROSCOPES AND INVEST MILLIONS INTO THEIR OPTICS! YOUR IMAGES WILL SHOW THIS!

The list goes on and on…

The camera outfits start at $599 and go up from there. We can fit a camera to your needs.

How does Olympus stack up to Canon and Nikon…

We don’t compare brands as a general rule, but we do compare each level of camera to each other. The basic Nikon 3400 up to their 5600 line up and the Canon Rebel line up are very basic and are “plastic” bodies. The have basic features and generally come with a “kit” lens. Our Olympus basic kits are similar in price but have lot more features to offer and the bodies are built much better!

Comparing more cameras into semi and pro cameras…we feel that you can have your cake and eat it too. The better and PRO lenses give superior images and have many features not found on the other brands.

Over the past few years. Our other 2 instructors both David Miller and Jorge Restrepo have added or switch to the Olympus brand of camera and are loving the image quality, features, and size of equipment.

Don’t believe us…LOL stop on by and see for yourself. We have images printed on metal up to 30”x40” inches and we dare you to tell us which camera produce the image!

Removing Noise from your Photos

Wed, 03 Mar 2021 21:32:58 GMT

Removing Noise from your Photos

By Jenn Mishra, Instructor St. Louis School of Photography

Sometimes you can’t help but photograph using high ISOs. I tend to up my ISO when I’m photographing motion in low light. But higher ISOs create digital noise, which looks a bit like static across your photo. Digital cameras are increasing the clarity of their images all the time. But if you have pictures with a lot of noise there are noise reduction programs that help clean your images.

Let me show you how to clean noise in Lightroom Classic. Then I’ll show you one of the noise reduction plug-ins available.

It’s best if you follow along. Find an image in your collection that has a lot of noise. Look for that was taken at over 3200 ISO. Even the best cameras will start introducing visible noise at that point. If you have one taken at 5000 or 6400 ISO, you’ll really see the difference.

I chose a photo I took in Varanasi, India. It was dark and this boy was hopping from boat to boat selling candles during a ceremony. I was in one of the boats, so not that stable myself. My settings were f/4.5 at 1/160th of a second, ISO 6400. I shoot with a Sony A7R3. With this lens, I was wide-open and I had lowered my shutter speed as much as I dared to capture motion. The only setting I had left was ISO. I raised it to 6400 to capture the brightest shot possible under the circumstances.

1 Mishra.No.Noise Reduction,.jpg

CAPTION: Original picture of a boy in Varanasi, India selling ceremonial candles showing digital noise. f/4.5 @ 1/160th, ISO 6400.

What is Noise?

Let’s zoom in close to see the noise in this photo.

There are two types of noise: luminance and chroma. Luminance noise is what we generally think of when we talk about noise. It looks like bright spots of light where there shouldn’t be. Chroma noise has to do with color. With chroma noise, you’ll see colored pixels where they shouldn’t be. I tend to see the red ones. This image is so noisy that all I can see are colored pixels where they shouldn’t be.

2.Mishra.noise.zoom copy

CAPTION: Close-up showing luminance and chroma noise.

How to Reduce Noise in Lightroom

Let’s see what we can do about the noise.

Go to the Develop Module in Lightroom and open the Detail panel. If you’ve not been here before this is where you find the sharpening and noise reduction tools. Right now I have both the Luminance and Color sliders at 0. Lightroom sometimes applies a bit of noise reduction automatically so yours may be at 25 by default.

3.Mishra.noise.zoom copy 2.jpeg

CAPTION: Screenshot showing noise reduction tools in Lightroom Classic.

Move the sliders to the right to add noise reduction. The other sliders under Luminance and Color help you refine the noise reduction.

There are two problems with noise reduction programs. They sometimes can’t find the noise. They can’t tell the difference between good pixels and bad. But sometimes they go too far and start blurring edges. You can easily lose detail in your image and make it look artificial and waxy. I’ll push both Luminance and Color sliders to 100 and show you what I mean.

4.mishra.zoom.noise.reduction.maximum

CAPTION: Screenshot showing the result of maximum noise reduction in Lightroom Classic.

Removing noise from your image is a balancing act between removing noise and retaining detail. Adobe puts the sharpening tool in Lightroom right next to the noise-reducing tool for a reason. As you move sliders may want to add a little sharpening. A lot of this is a personal preference. Some photographers like their images smoother; others are ok with a bit of noise if it helps keep their subject sharp.

5.mishra.zoom.noise.reduction.jpg

CAPTION: Screenshot showing optimum noise reduction in Lightroom Classic

Lightroom does an ok job of removing noise. For most photos, the Lightroom tool works fine. But there are better noise reduction programs on the market. You should know about these if you want to take noise reduction a step further.

Topaz DeNoise AI

Many of the programs work as plug-ins for Lightroom and Photoshop. You can open your image in the plug-in, reduce noise, and save your image back to your Lightroom catalog. Let me show you one of the most popular programs: Topaz DeNoise AI.

There’s a free trial download if you want to follow along. Go to www.topazlabs.com/denoise-ai . You can decide later whether you want to buy the program at $79.99.

To open the image in DeNoise AI, go to the Photo drop-down menu and select Photo > Edit In > Topaz DeNoise AI. If you round-trip your images into Photoshop for editing, this will feel familiar. Select “Edit a Copy with Lightroom Adjustments” and click OK. DeNoise gets right to work analyzing the image for noise. The original image is on the left side of the screen and a noise reduction preview is on the right.

There are three different modes: DeNoise AI, AI Clear, and Low Light. I’ll try each of these to see which does a better job on my image. As with Lightroom, the noise reduction tools let you refine the noise reduction and sharpen details to your liking. In the end, I opted for the DeNoise AI mode and tweaked the sliders to remove more noise and enhance sharpness.

6.Mishra.zoom.denoise.jpg

CAPTION: Screenshot showing before and after noise reduction in Topaz DeNoise AI.

Conclusion

With the noise reduction software on the market, there is no fear of raising your ISO to capture an image. You can remove most of the noise in post-processing. Lightroom will work well for light noise reduction, but plug-ins like Topaz DeNoise AI take noise reduction a step further. In this case, the results for both Lightroom and DeNoise AI were similar. But overall, DeNoise is a more powerful tool.

7.Mishra.noise.reduction.Comparision.jpg

CAPTION: Noise reduction comparison showing before noise reduction (left), noise reduction with Lightroom Classic (middle), and noise reduction with Topaz DeNoise AI (right).

In this article, I showed you the noise reduction tools in Lightroom Classic and Topaz DeNoise AI. But there are other products on the market. Capture One Pro has the best internal noise reduction tool. If you’re looking for a plug-in, Noiseware, and Neat Image work as well as DeNoise. Neat Image is less expensive and once you become familiar with the interface, it moves at lightning speed.